Another early morning run….
Passing well attended “Shrimp Cottage” on the right side of the road,
this one is taking me all the way downhill to the shore and by that, to one of the UK’s last remaining working fishing harbours, where trawlers of various shapes and sizes share the calm but tidal waters of the Channel with a small marina of sailing and leisure boats – all sheltered by a half a mile long break water.
Today, it may be a good place to spot purple sandpipers, but this used to be the site from which over 2000 American soldiers departed for Utah Beach, now nearly 80 years ago, to risk their lifes to free not less than a whole continent.
I am in Brixham, on the coast of Devon.
Driving here from Surrey, I had passed Stonehenge.
Watching hundreds of visitors circling the monument at a great distance, I remained puzzled about the appeal of the place.
I have to admit, that I consider it as one of the most overrated tourist attractions on the Globe. In my ignorance, I see it as not much more than a circle of a few big stones on a field, which can – very comfortably – be seen from the inside of a car while driving along the nearby, usually congested road.
Investing not less than £23 (!), one can obtain the permission to do the same on foot, from more or less the same distance. One will not be allowed to touch a stone, one will not even be allowed to walk among the stones…..
In contrast, the real attraction of this part of the world – I would say – lies right ahead of me this morning , and there are nearly 3000 miles of it, which can be walked and run on, which can be touched and can be thoroughly enjoyed for free around the year. It is called the “English Coastal Path”.
May be a bit long for a single morning run, but filled with endless artefacts of history and art, unique wildlife, a fair amount of wind, rain and bad weather in general, plus never ending stunning views – especially here in Brixham.
Having enjoyed the colourful, iluminated view of the fishtown area of Brixham the previous night,
I am heading East this morning, towards Berry Head.
Ignoring the puzzling stare of the old fisherman at Grenville Cottage,
I narrowly avoid being pounced on by a blue silverback with fetching sun glasses……
Pressing on, I pass a stretch of beach, that contains the largest collection of perfectly shaped skipping stones I have ever come across.
Sorry, but no time to try it out though….
This is followed by one of the UK’s tide bells (above) , which is part of an art installation, that is supposed to remind us of the fast changing climate and of the rising sea levels as a result of it. But at least today, I am in luck and the bell is not ringing….
Following the now ascending coastal path, I am first trespassing on to the terasse of the rather grande Berry Head Hotel,
I am crossing a stretch of Northern cloud forest and finally I find myself faced by the barrels of the sixteen cannons of an old battery.
Luckily there is a small gap in this imposing defense installation, so that after all , I manage to reach the lighthouse on the top of the cliff and with that, a spectacular view of the South facing coast and of the English Channel.
Here the exposure to the wind and to the force of the waves, which are working relentlessly on the rocks, is very different.
Now it is all the way a combination of tail winds, downhill running, but also passing of a large number of dog walkers with happy canines and even of a single lifesized metal sculpture of a rhino in a frontgarden, before I return to the starting point of my morning run .
I doubt that a few large stones in a circle on a field can match this…..
Well, time for a coffee….or two….
The Blue Vet Diary 