Most spa towns have centuries of history, long lists of famous visitors and endless anecdotes that just wait to be rediscovered. And this place of hot springs and mineral rich water is no exception.
Nestling in a small valley in the western most outcrop of Czechia, right in the middle of Europe, both the sick and those in need of recuperation, as well as the rich and famous, usually less sick or convalescing, have enjoyed this oasis of fresh air, unspoiled nature and healthy living, but probably more so this oasis of extravagant living, far removed from the politics and social issues of the industrial centres of the rest of the continent.
Here lavish hospitality, Michelin star cuisine, as well as exclusive outlets for Italian clothing, Swiss watches and opulent jewellery have found a home equal to the finest addresses in Knightsbridge, the Kurfürstendamm or the Champs-Élysées.
As always – to avoid the crowds, places like these are best explored with the help of a pair of running shoes, early in the morning.
It is the middle of March and while the reception of Grand Hotel Pupp is still deserted, I am exiting the building and cross the circular front court, which is covered with flag stones bearing the names of some more exceptional former guests.
Crossing the small bridge across the Teplá and running through a small park, I am looking at the Kaiserbad Spa, which together with the hotel provided 20 years ago a fitting background for Casino Royale, the first Bond movie featuring Daniel Craig.
Over a century before then, the building housed one of the world’s first fitness studios, kitted out with Swedish exercise machines in its Zander Hall.
While all of the machines have disappeared, the mural paintings, depicting ancient olympic scenes, have been preserved, providing for a few years, together with the dark wood panelling, a suitable backdrop for international chess tournaments and for a genuine casino.
Crossing the Teplá again, I then continue my run on a narrow path, that is climbing in a zigzag pattern up the steep hill behind the hotel. With the town and the river slowly disappearing below me, my body is slowly adjusting to the cold morning temperatures which had caused a light ground frost.
Following the forest trail in a northerly direction, I am crossing the narrow tracks of a funicular. Turning left at a small station building, I realise that even more climbing is ahead of me.
Eventually I reach the end of the railway track and a look out tower, still deserted at this time of the day.
Descending now, I am heading further north along the ridge of the hill, passing the rather grand looking Myslivna hunting lodge to my left, with its tall windows and Art Nouveau features, another relict of Karlovy Vary’s Golden Era at the end of the 19th century.
Finally, I arrive at Jeleni skok, the “deer jump”, a small rocky outcrop ordained with the sculpture of a mountain goat. This place allows a generous view over the whole spa town, while the sun is rising above the crest of the hills to the East.
From here the path descends all the way back to the town and without much of an effort, I am finding myself standing between the old telegraph station and the Olympic Palace Hotel, another place with a famous former resident….
Following this road, I arrive at the Hot Spring Colonade, where a fountain of hot water is producing a permanent cloud of vapour, that is finding its way through the open roof of the building. After scolding my fingers at the small taps, where too late I notice a sign indicating that the water is exiting the ground with stable 72 degrees, I appreciate why most of the visitors had purchased small porcelain cups to taste the famed remedial liquid.
Now it is only a short distance along the river and past the “Elefant”, another renowned hotel with an excellent café and one of the town’s finest selections of both local and cosmopolitan pastries, before I find myself again in-front of the Grand Hotel.
Just another way to cover 300 years of history in 35 minutes…..
The Blue Vet Diary 